Last week my family got a new puppy!! He is about 8 months old right now. My brother named him Caspian. I'm not sure if I like that name but whatever.
He is so cute!
I think he is a Carolina Husky mixed with a German Shepherd. But he is absolutely nutty!!!!
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Wednesday, July 17, 2013
Pittsburg Penguins Knitting Chart
The Penguins; I can't stand them, but I won't get into that in order to avoid offending any of their fans...
Boston Bruins Knitting Chart
The Boston Bruins may not be a team that I actually like, but I have to admit their logo is kind of cool.
Lesson 9: Seeing Double
The duplicate stitch. So useful, so helpful, so easy! Yes this lesson is about the duplicate stitch: what it's for and how to do it. Looking at pictures of the stitch it looks a little difficult, but it is actually pretty easy!
The duplicate stitch is used for adding patterns and designs to your knitting, much like fair isle, but this stich is better for using many colors and if the design is spread out. It is also useful when you want to put a motif on a knitted piece but you're not sure where exactly. You can just put it on after you have finished knitting!
Step one is o cut a piece of yarn in your desired color. Usually I cut the yarn about 3 feet long or a little shorter when I know that I am going to need multiple long strands to fill the entire space that I want to fill, but if you know that you don't need that much you can just cut less. I use a plastic yarn needle with a fairly large eye because those are comfortable for me to use, but use whichever type you prefer.
Step two is to figure out where the yarn needs to go on the knitting. It is best to start at the bottom of the design on either the left or right side, it doesn't matter in this case.
Step three: poke the needle from the bottom of the knitted fabric at the bottom of the stitch that needs to be covered with yarn. In the picture, if I wanted to cover the blue stitch with yarn, I would poke the needle up through the red dot. Pull the yarn through the fabric until you have about 2 inches on the underside. Hold that piece for a few stitches until it is secure.
Step four is poke the needle down through the top corner of the stitch (if you are starting from the left side of the design, poke the needle down through the left corner. If you start from the right side of the design poke the needle in the right side of the stitch). Then, poke it back up through the other side of the stitch and pull the yarn through until it is snug but not tight.
In the picture to start from the right side of the design, poke the needle down through the blue dot and up from the red dot (it's the opposite for starting from the left)
The key is to bring the yarn under the purple stitch
Step five is to poke the needle back down through the bottom of the stitch in the same place where you started with it. Then repeat steps two through five for the rest of the stitches. To finish off the yarn secure it by pulling it through a few stitches on the back of the work, but make sure you can't see the yarn on the front of the work where it shouldn't be seen.
And that's all there is to it! For many of the fair isle charts that I have put on the site it may be easier to use the duplicate stitch for them rather than fair isle because of the intricacy and use of multiple colors in a row.
The duplicate stitch is used for adding patterns and designs to your knitting, much like fair isle, but this stich is better for using many colors and if the design is spread out. It is also useful when you want to put a motif on a knitted piece but you're not sure where exactly. You can just put it on after you have finished knitting!
Step one is o cut a piece of yarn in your desired color. Usually I cut the yarn about 3 feet long or a little shorter when I know that I am going to need multiple long strands to fill the entire space that I want to fill, but if you know that you don't need that much you can just cut less. I use a plastic yarn needle with a fairly large eye because those are comfortable for me to use, but use whichever type you prefer.
Step two is to figure out where the yarn needs to go on the knitting. It is best to start at the bottom of the design on either the left or right side, it doesn't matter in this case.
Step three: poke the needle from the bottom of the knitted fabric at the bottom of the stitch that needs to be covered with yarn. In the picture, if I wanted to cover the blue stitch with yarn, I would poke the needle up through the red dot. Pull the yarn through the fabric until you have about 2 inches on the underside. Hold that piece for a few stitches until it is secure.
Step four is poke the needle down through the top corner of the stitch (if you are starting from the left side of the design, poke the needle down through the left corner. If you start from the right side of the design poke the needle in the right side of the stitch). Then, poke it back up through the other side of the stitch and pull the yarn through until it is snug but not tight.
In the picture to start from the right side of the design, poke the needle down through the blue dot and up from the red dot (it's the opposite for starting from the left)
The key is to bring the yarn under the purple stitch
Step five is to poke the needle back down through the bottom of the stitch in the same place where you started with it. Then repeat steps two through five for the rest of the stitches. To finish off the yarn secure it by pulling it through a few stitches on the back of the work, but make sure you can't see the yarn on the front of the work where it shouldn't be seen.
And that's all there is to it! For many of the fair isle charts that I have put on the site it may be easier to use the duplicate stitch for them rather than fair isle because of the intricacy and use of multiple colors in a row.
Chicago Blackhawks Knitting Chart
This is the Chicago Blackhawks logo. For some parts you will have to use a stem stitch. These areas include the yellow lines on the hair, around the white part of the eye, and the lines on the feathers. I would also outline the feathers in black stitching.
Monday, July 15, 2013
Coming Soon: NHL Charts!
So I was trying to figure out what my next post should be. And then, like a ton of bricks, it hit me. NHL logo charts! I have already made the New York Rangers chart so I figured why not?!
I'm going to use a program that I know if to create fair isle charts for all of the NHL teams! Some of them will be easier to do the duplicate stitch which I will make a tutorial about for those of you who don't know how to do it.
I'm planning on doing all the logos eventually, but If you have any requests for me to do some sooner than originally planned leave a comment below!
Happy knitting!!
I'm going to use a program that I know if to create fair isle charts for all of the NHL teams! Some of them will be easier to do the duplicate stitch which I will make a tutorial about for those of you who don't know how to do it.
I'm planning on doing all the logos eventually, but If you have any requests for me to do some sooner than originally planned leave a comment below!
Happy knitting!!
Friday, July 12, 2013
Pretty Little Liars Sleep Mask Pattern
When I made this I was really bored so I thought, "hey, why not make a PLL sleep mask?" Yes, I realize that I have very random thoughts. Of course you can use any design that you want. to use this pattern make the design 22 sts wide and 37 sts long.
So the materials are...
DK weight yarn (I used Classic Elite Yarns Premiere which I think is no longer being made. I probably used about a little less than half the skein)
Contrasting yarn in DK or Worsted weight ( I used Berrocco Vintage that I already had and you don't need much because it's for the words.)
Size 3 straight needles
Yarn needle
Instructions:
CO4
Row 1: k1, inc, inc, k1
Row 2 and all other even rows (unless otherwise stated): Keep first and last 2 sts in garter st and purl the other sts
Row 3: k2, inc, inc, k2
Row 5: k2, inc in next 4sts, k2
Row 7 k2, inc in next 8 sts, k2
Row 9: k2, inc in next 16 sts, k2
Rows 11, 13, 15: knit
Row 17: k2, work cable #1 (sl 2sts onto cable needle, hold in back, k2 fom LH needle, k2 from cable needle), k1, work design over next 22sts, k1, work cable #2 (sl 2sts onto cable needle, hold in front, k2 from LH needle, k2 from cable needle), k2
Continue working design over center 22 sts, keep outer 2 sts in garter st, work cables every other knit row.
Row 55, 57: knit
Row 59: k2, k2tog 16times, k2
Row 61: k2, k2tog 8 times, k2
Row 63: k2, k2tog 4 times, k2
Row 65: k2, k2tog 2 times, k2
Row 67: k1, k2tog 2 times, k1
BO
Ties (make 2)
Cast on 50 sts, bind off
Tie to the ends of the mask
Weave in ends
Here is the chart for the design I used. Start on the right side of the chart and work the pattern from right to left, starting with 1 and ending with 22 where I mention the "center 22sts".
So the materials are...
DK weight yarn (I used Classic Elite Yarns Premiere which I think is no longer being made. I probably used about a little less than half the skein)
Contrasting yarn in DK or Worsted weight ( I used Berrocco Vintage that I already had and you don't need much because it's for the words.)
Size 3 straight needles
Yarn needle
Instructions:
CO4
Row 1: k1, inc, inc, k1
Row 2 and all other even rows (unless otherwise stated): Keep first and last 2 sts in garter st and purl the other sts
Row 3: k2, inc, inc, k2
Row 5: k2, inc in next 4sts, k2
Row 7 k2, inc in next 8 sts, k2
Row 9: k2, inc in next 16 sts, k2
Rows 11, 13, 15: knit
Row 17: k2, work cable #1 (sl 2sts onto cable needle, hold in back, k2 fom LH needle, k2 from cable needle), k1, work design over next 22sts, k1, work cable #2 (sl 2sts onto cable needle, hold in front, k2 from LH needle, k2 from cable needle), k2
Continue working design over center 22 sts, keep outer 2 sts in garter st, work cables every other knit row.
Row 55, 57: knit
Row 59: k2, k2tog 16times, k2
Row 61: k2, k2tog 8 times, k2
Row 63: k2, k2tog 4 times, k2
Row 65: k2, k2tog 2 times, k2
Row 67: k1, k2tog 2 times, k1
BO
Ties (make 2)
Cast on 50 sts, bind off
Tie to the ends of the mask
Weave in ends
Here is the chart for the design I used. Start on the right side of the chart and work the pattern from right to left, starting with 1 and ending with 22 where I mention the "center 22sts".
Tuesday, July 9, 2013
Pretty Little Liars Chart
This is a chart that I made on Tricksy. I made the chart so that I could put it into a little sleeping mask since Pretty Little Liars is one of my new addictions. I seriously cannot stop watching that show. Thank goodness for Netflix!
Anywho this chart is pretty simple and you can chose so many different color combinations!
Anywho this chart is pretty simple and you can chose so many different color combinations!
Fair Isle Coasters Pattern
These coasters will utilize the skill you learned in lesson 8: fair isle knitting! They are easy to knit, but take some time because of the design incorporated in them. There are 4 different designs to chose from so you can make a set of 4 or 5 and have them be matching or combine the designs to make a unique mismatch set.
Materials:
Acrylic worsted weight yarn in 4 colors (I used Red Heart Super Saver because the colors are bright and they are machine washable and dryable)
I'm not really sure about how much of each color you will need but for a guess I would say as long as you have at least half a skein that will be enough.
Straight needles size 7
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Instructions:
For each coaster you will start out by casting on 17 sts
Some of the designs involve using more than 2 colors in one row. Here is a video to show you how to do that 3 Strand Knitting
The charts look rectangular but the coasters will be squares
<------- Start Here at the 1 and go to the left. On the purl row, start at the 18 on row 2 and work to the right.
On the cast off row for this coaster you can use plain yellow to make it easier to have a neat edge.
Here where there is this large yellow section, you do not have to carry the pink across the back of the work, but you might want to in order to make the entire piece have the same thickness.
For this one you can eliminate the pink if you don't want to have 4 colors in the same row. Instead you can use blue or yellow there.
Materials:
Acrylic worsted weight yarn in 4 colors (I used Red Heart Super Saver because the colors are bright and they are machine washable and dryable)
I'm not really sure about how much of each color you will need but for a guess I would say as long as you have at least half a skein that will be enough.
Straight needles size 7
Yarn needle for weaving in ends
Instructions:
For each coaster you will start out by casting on 17 sts
Some of the designs involve using more than 2 colors in one row. Here is a video to show you how to do that 3 Strand Knitting
The charts look rectangular but the coasters will be squares
<------- Start Here at the 1 and go to the left. On the purl row, start at the 18 on row 2 and work to the right.
On the cast off row for this coaster you can use plain yellow to make it easier to have a neat edge.
Here where there is this large yellow section, you do not have to carry the pink across the back of the work, but you might want to in order to make the entire piece have the same thickness.
For this one you can eliminate the pink if you don't want to have 4 colors in the same row. Instead you can use blue or yellow there.
Monday, July 8, 2013
Lesson 8: Rainbow Knitting
In this post I'm going to talk about how to make your knitting super colorful. The methos that I am going to teach you is called fair isle. I don't know why it's called that. It makes no sense but whatever.
Fair isle has so many different uses; it's fantastic!! You can use it for making little pictures on a piece or repeating patterns or motifs or anything that involves more than one color in single row.
This might look a bit difficult at first. Looks are not deceiving here. But there is hope! As with every technique on this site with practice, comes skill. To get started you're going to need to different colored yarns and a pair of needles. I think using some cheap acrylic is just fine for practicing.
First cast on 10 sts in one color. This is going to be color 1. Knit a few rows in stockinette stitch to start out. Now we are going to add (wait for it...) a second color!! Trust me it will be fun! So just knit 2 sts and then when you put the RH needle into the next stitch wrap it with color 2 aka red in my chart. Finish the stitch normally and let color 1 hang down behind the work. Do the next stitch with color 2 again. Then on the 5th stitch of the row insert the RH needle, pick up color 1, drop color 2 in the back and wrap the needle with color 1. Just let color 2 hang down. When you wrap the needle with color 1, don't pull it tightly. Instead just pull it enough to make it flat on the back of the work. If you pull it tightly the work will look puckered on the front. Do another stitch in color 1 and then drop color 1 and pick up color 2 again.
When you get to the purl row, pretty much everything is the same except you drop the yarn in FRONT of the work instead of the back. You want to make sure you always have the yarn dropped on the same side so that one side looks clean and neat and the other has a bunch of pieces of yarn across it.
Basically that's it! But obviously you are going to be dealing with a little more than just knitting 2 sts and then changing the color. When you have patterns with more than 2 or 3 sts in the same color, you're going to have to carry the other color in the back of the work. It's pretty easy to do. To make it easier to explain, I'm going to use an example. So say your pattern says you need to knit 2 sts in one color and then 5 sts in another color then 3 more sts in the first color. What you do is knit the two sts in the first color normally, then knit a stitch in the 2nd color. On the 2nd stitch of the 2nd color, *insert the RH needle in the stitch as if you were going to knit it. Then, wrap the needle with color ONE not color two. Wrap the needle with color two then unwrap color one. The two yarns will be twisted around each other. Finish knitting the stitch. Then knit the next stitch normally with color 2 and repeat the process from the * until 4/5 stitches of color 2 have been knit. When knitting the 5th stitch you do not need to wrap the first color and then the second color, just work it normally.
After all 5 sts have been knit, change the color and knit the next 2 sts with color 1.
I hope this has been helpful if you are looking to learn how to knit fair isle! It is an essential skill for any knitter who wishes to advance their talents. Wow that sentence sounded super smart....
The next post will be a fair isle pattern for beginners so be on the lookout!
Happy knitting :)
Fair isle has so many different uses; it's fantastic!! You can use it for making little pictures on a piece or repeating patterns or motifs or anything that involves more than one color in single row.
This might look a bit difficult at first. Looks are not deceiving here. But there is hope! As with every technique on this site with practice, comes skill. To get started you're going to need to different colored yarns and a pair of needles. I think using some cheap acrylic is just fine for practicing.
First cast on 10 sts in one color. This is going to be color 1. Knit a few rows in stockinette stitch to start out. Now we are going to add (wait for it...) a second color!! Trust me it will be fun! So just knit 2 sts and then when you put the RH needle into the next stitch wrap it with color 2 aka red in my chart. Finish the stitch normally and let color 1 hang down behind the work. Do the next stitch with color 2 again. Then on the 5th stitch of the row insert the RH needle, pick up color 1, drop color 2 in the back and wrap the needle with color 1. Just let color 2 hang down. When you wrap the needle with color 1, don't pull it tightly. Instead just pull it enough to make it flat on the back of the work. If you pull it tightly the work will look puckered on the front. Do another stitch in color 1 and then drop color 1 and pick up color 2 again.
When you get to the purl row, pretty much everything is the same except you drop the yarn in FRONT of the work instead of the back. You want to make sure you always have the yarn dropped on the same side so that one side looks clean and neat and the other has a bunch of pieces of yarn across it.
Basically that's it! But obviously you are going to be dealing with a little more than just knitting 2 sts and then changing the color. When you have patterns with more than 2 or 3 sts in the same color, you're going to have to carry the other color in the back of the work. It's pretty easy to do. To make it easier to explain, I'm going to use an example. So say your pattern says you need to knit 2 sts in one color and then 5 sts in another color then 3 more sts in the first color. What you do is knit the two sts in the first color normally, then knit a stitch in the 2nd color. On the 2nd stitch of the 2nd color, *insert the RH needle in the stitch as if you were going to knit it. Then, wrap the needle with color ONE not color two. Wrap the needle with color two then unwrap color one. The two yarns will be twisted around each other. Finish knitting the stitch. Then knit the next stitch normally with color 2 and repeat the process from the * until 4/5 stitches of color 2 have been knit. When knitting the 5th stitch you do not need to wrap the first color and then the second color, just work it normally.
After all 5 sts have been knit, change the color and knit the next 2 sts with color 1.
I hope this has been helpful if you are looking to learn how to knit fair isle! It is an essential skill for any knitter who wishes to advance their talents. Wow that sentence sounded super smart....
The next post will be a fair isle pattern for beginners so be on the lookout!
Happy knitting :)
Owl Pattern
This owl pattern is soo cute!! I made on for my brother for his birthday and he loves it! I made the head a little too small at first so I modified the pattern to hopefully make it a little bigger. If I were to make the owl again I would turn it inside out so the purl side is showing to make it look like there are feathers. That's what I did for the wings here and they look better this way I think. Sorry I don't have any picture :( It is as life like as I could make it!
Materials:
1.5 skeins of Lion Brand Jiffy Bulky
4 size 5 double pointed needles
A few yards of black worsted weight yarn
Instructions:
Body
CO 6 evenly
Rnd 1: inc in all sts
Rnd2: (k1, inc) around
Rnd 3: (k2, inc) around
Rnd 4: (k3, inc) around
Rnd 5: (k4, inc) around
Rnd 6: (k5, inc) around
Rnd 7: (k6, inc) around
Rnd 8: (k7, inc) around
Rnd 9: (k8, inc) around
Knit even for 4 rounds
K9, k2tog, k29, m1, k20 (this round will be called the % round)
Repeat % round 3 times
Adjust the sts so there is an even amount on each needle (it might not be perfect but get it as close as it can get)
Knit 4 rounds even
Repeat % round 4 times
Knit 4 rounds even
Repeat % round 4 times
Knit 5 rounds evens
K38, k2tog, k to end (this is the & round)
Knit 1 round even
Repeat & round
Knit 5 rounds even
Repeat & round 7 times
K2tog at the beginning of each needle
Adjust the sts so there is an even amount on each needle (it may not be perfect but close is good)
Knit 10 rounds even
Stuff owl
Work 5 rounds even
(k to last st on needle, k2tog) repeat ( ) for both other needles
K2tog at each end of each needle
Stuff head and draw yarn through loops to finish
Wings
(These are worked flat)
CO2
Row 1: inc in both sts
Row 2 and all even rows until further notice: Purl
Row 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11: inc at each end
Row 13 and 15: inc in first 2 sts and last 2 sts
Row 17: rep row 3
Row 19: rep row 13
Row 20-30: work even
Row 31: inc in first and last st
Row 33: rep row 31
Row 35: k1, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k1
Row 37: k16, k2tog, k16
Row 39: k2tog, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k2tog
Row 41: k2tog, k8, k2tog, k8, k2tog
Row 42: p2tog at each end
BO
Fold wig half and whip stitch the edges together. I kept the purl side out because I though it looked more like feathers and I didn't add any stuffing. Sew onto body using the photo for placement.
Legs
(These are worked in the round)
CO3 evenly
Rnd 1: inc in each st
Rnd 2: inc in each st
Rnd 3: inc in the first st on each needle
Rnd 4-11: work even
Rnd 12: inc in the first st on each needle
Rnd 13: work even
Rnd 14: inc in 3rd stitch on each needle
Rnd 15: inc in first st on each needle
BO all sts
Feet
CO3 on 1 dp needle
Work 3-stitch i-cord for 6 rows. Do not cast off; put the 3 sts on a separate needle. Make 2 more pieces in the same way. Put all 3 pieces on the same needle and make sure you have a piece of working yarn on the left side. Knit across all 9 sts. Work 2 more rows of the 9-st i-cord.
Next row: k2tog, k2tog, k2tog,k2tog, k1
Next row: k2tog, k2tog, k1
Work i-cord with remaining 3sts for 5 rows
BO
Tie a small piece of black yarn to each toe and hide on end inside the toe so it is not visible. These are the owl's talons.
Attach the feet to the bottoms of the legs. Stuff the legs and sew them to the bottom of the body.
Embroider a face on the owl. You can embroider the beak if you don't know how to crochet but if you do this is the beak pattern:
Ch4, turn
In second st from the hook work a slip st, in the next chain work a sc, in the next chain st work a hdc st. Finish off and use the tails to tie the beak to the face.
And now you have a big fluffy owl friend!! If you have any questions about the pattern or find any mistakes please ask/tell me in the comments and I will get back to you ASAP!
Materials:
1.5 skeins of Lion Brand Jiffy Bulky
4 size 5 double pointed needles
A few yards of black worsted weight yarn
Instructions:
Body
CO 6 evenly
Rnd 1: inc in all sts
Rnd2: (k1, inc) around
Rnd 3: (k2, inc) around
Rnd 4: (k3, inc) around
Rnd 5: (k4, inc) around
Rnd 6: (k5, inc) around
Rnd 7: (k6, inc) around
Rnd 8: (k7, inc) around
Rnd 9: (k8, inc) around
Knit even for 4 rounds
K9, k2tog, k29, m1, k20 (this round will be called the % round)
Repeat % round 3 times
Adjust the sts so there is an even amount on each needle (it might not be perfect but get it as close as it can get)
Knit 4 rounds even
Repeat % round 4 times
Knit 4 rounds even
Repeat % round 4 times
Knit 5 rounds evens
K38, k2tog, k to end (this is the & round)
Knit 1 round even
Repeat & round
Knit 5 rounds even
Repeat & round 7 times
K2tog at the beginning of each needle
Adjust the sts so there is an even amount on each needle (it may not be perfect but close is good)
Knit 10 rounds even
Stuff owl
Work 5 rounds even
(k to last st on needle, k2tog) repeat ( ) for both other needles
K2tog at each end of each needle
Stuff head and draw yarn through loops to finish
Wings
(These are worked flat)
CO2
Row 1: inc in both sts
Row 2 and all even rows until further notice: Purl
Row 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11: inc at each end
Row 13 and 15: inc in first 2 sts and last 2 sts
Row 17: rep row 3
Row 19: rep row 13
Row 20-30: work even
Row 31: inc in first and last st
Row 33: rep row 31
Row 35: k1, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k14, k2tog, k1
Row 37: k16, k2tog, k16
Row 39: k2tog, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k11, k2tog, k2tog
Row 41: k2tog, k8, k2tog, k8, k2tog
Row 42: p2tog at each end
BO
Fold wig half and whip stitch the edges together. I kept the purl side out because I though it looked more like feathers and I didn't add any stuffing. Sew onto body using the photo for placement.
Legs
(These are worked in the round)
CO3 evenly
Rnd 1: inc in each st
Rnd 2: inc in each st
Rnd 3: inc in the first st on each needle
Rnd 4-11: work even
Rnd 12: inc in the first st on each needle
Rnd 13: work even
Rnd 14: inc in 3rd stitch on each needle
Rnd 15: inc in first st on each needle
BO all sts
Feet
CO3 on 1 dp needle
Work 3-stitch i-cord for 6 rows. Do not cast off; put the 3 sts on a separate needle. Make 2 more pieces in the same way. Put all 3 pieces on the same needle and make sure you have a piece of working yarn on the left side. Knit across all 9 sts. Work 2 more rows of the 9-st i-cord.
Next row: k2tog, k2tog, k2tog,k2tog, k1
Next row: k2tog, k2tog, k1
Work i-cord with remaining 3sts for 5 rows
BO
Tie a small piece of black yarn to each toe and hide on end inside the toe so it is not visible. These are the owl's talons.
Attach the feet to the bottoms of the legs. Stuff the legs and sew them to the bottom of the body.
Embroider a face on the owl. You can embroider the beak if you don't know how to crochet but if you do this is the beak pattern:
Ch4, turn
In second st from the hook work a slip st, in the next chain work a sc, in the next chain st work a hdc st. Finish off and use the tails to tie the beak to the face.
And now you have a big fluffy owl friend!! If you have any questions about the pattern or find any mistakes please ask/tell me in the comments and I will get back to you ASAP!
Etsy.com
I have recently opened up my very own shop on Etsy! I sell a bunch of random handmade stuff so please check out my shop and see what you like!
The name of my shop is HalainnLucyHandmade. Here's a link! http://www.etsy.com/shop/HalainnLucyHandmade?ref=search_shop_redirect
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